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PRESLES
The routes - Recommended routes - Equipment - Cartography - Location - Access - Site - Lodging/provisions - Topo - Comments
| Nearest village : | Presles | Number of routes : | 300 |
| Department : | 38 | Height (limites) : | 300 meters |
| Setting : | Athletic at adventurous | Orientation : | South |
| Public : | good and very good climbers | Climbing season : | Year round |
| Equipment : | good at excellent | Rating : | D at ABO |
| Altitude : | 800 meters | Rock : | Limestone |
The routes
Because
of the size of the site, there's something for nearly every climbing style.
Nevertheless, the steep cliffs offer few easy paths. Les Buis, by far
the easiest, is rated D and requires passing class 5+.
Dense, grey slabs, water drop holes, crumbly yellow rock, chutes, cracks,
roofs, challenging free climbing, aid route passages, very well protected
sections, adventure ground: you'll find all of these climbing elements
in this major Vercors site.What progress has been made since POURTIER
and TAILLEFER opened the Buis route in 1953! The cliff was at the height
of its fame between 1973 and 1984. During this period, the bande …
Fara from Lyon and climbers from Grenoble were opening paths at a devilish
pace. The period didn't just lead to new itineraries, you must read the
words of friendship, hinted at but not spelled out, in the messages that
the climbers left for one another in the notebooks of the local bars.In
the following years, for lack of interested participants, the cliff half-slept
until Bruno BEATRIX arrived. He started a new development phase where
the setting-up was done by installing fixed ropes, using drills, bolts,
and a large clean-up operation to make the routes ready to use. Other
climbers later came to participate in the cliff's renewal.
- Tina Dalle : Annie dalle 6a+, Toi mon toit 6b+, Alpinista 6ch 7a, Coulée douce 7a/b, Grain de poussière 7c, Trapèze 8a.
- Pierrot Beach : Merry Mary 6a, Jupons et grattons 7a+, Hutus ou rien 7b, Pan bagnard 7c, Épaulé jeté 7c+.
- Presles : Buis D, Temps des guenilles TD, Fhara Kiri TD/TD+, Coucou nous revoilou TD+, Droit Chemin TD+, Méli-mélo TD+, Doigt de passion TD+, Singes en hiver TD+/ED-, Vue de l'extérieur ED-, Banc public ED, Bêtes qui s'ignorent ED+.
-
The list is far from complete, Presles has many more jewels in her crown..
Generally speaking, the equipment is of good quality. Nevertheless, you might want to take along a set of nuts as well as the paraphernalia of the climber who wants to be able to use all the little tricks of the trade.
Since 1988 when the reequipping began with Nosf‚ratu, and particularly since 1990, a big effort has been made to improve the cliff's equipment. Today, in addition to the work done by the association Territoires du nord-ouest, more than 40 routes have been reequipped by a team of enthusiasts under the aegis of the F.F.M.E..
The enormous efforts of Jean-Marie LEROUX must be mentioned. This work has included reequipping and opening up access paths, as well as creating new routes. Alain REBREYEND has had another principal role in the equipping and reequipping of Presles. He is also present in the Isère sites, as coordinator of the departmental facilities plan for the "Direction Départementale de Jeunesse et Sports".
- Map : Michelin n° 244 pli 38
- IGN TOP 25 3235 OT plis E2-E3
Location
The Presles cliffs are located in the heart of the Vercors in Royans, between Grenoble and Valence. The La Bourne river has created impressive gorges between Villard-de-L'ans and Pont-en-Royans. The vertical majesty of The Presles cliffs, and the Ranc rocks which continue after them, form the exit from these gorges.
Access
From Grenoble, it's best to get to Presles by way of the IsŠre valley, then by Pont en Royans. The breathtaking panorama of the cliffs appears as the road climbs.
Site
Presles is certainly one of the rare sites to offer such a wide range of climbs. From the several meter short passes to the big, adventurous climb more than 300 m high, including itineraries with 3 to 4 pitches, from free solo to tricky aid climbing, it's all available in pleasant surroundings and a relaxing atmosphere..
Practice cliff areas
Tina
slab: around 50 routes from 3 to 8a+. This practice cliff follows the
Nugues rocks, and is located just above the road which leads to Presles
village, immediately before the tunnels. It offers a variety of difficulty
levels.
Pierrot Beach : 43 climbs from 5+ to 8a+. This area was developed for the French youth championships in 1994. It offers a group of slab routes and diverse colonnettes that have to be seen..
Cliff areas
 |
Les Rochers de Nugues (Tina Dalle practice cliff sector) Rochers de Nugues : twenty routes crisscross this 120 meter high sector. They may be used as an introduction to the big Presles routes or in case of uncertain weather. |
Rochers de Presles et du Ranc : 9 sectors offer more than 200 routes, the tallest of which measures 300 meters. These walls stretch out over several kilometers. There are areas for different climbing styles.
Lodging/provisions
All
conveniences are available in Pont-en-Royans.
There are possibilities for on-site lodging.
Gites (with phone number)
- Gazon à Presles : 04.76.36.10.93
- Vol de nuit à Choranche : 04.76.36.04.03
- La Ranconnière à Choranche : 04.76.36.08.64
- Chambres et tables d'hôtes "Les Fauries" situés à Presles (3 épis). Tél / Fax : 04 76 36 10 50
- Gîtes
des Arnaux (un gîte de 15 places et deux gîtes
de 6 places).
Refuges
- à Pont-en-Royans
- à Presles
Tél. : 04.76.36.12.40
Total accommodation: 32 places (chambres de 4 et 6 personnes). Prix : 36 F/nuit.
Inns
-
At l'auberge de Presles :the meeting point of sports and nature (Phone : 04.76.36.04.75).
-
Au Faz : 04.76.36.06.75. Gîte
Hotel -restaurant
- "Le Jorjane" à Choranche : 04.76.36.09.50
Topo
« Escalades à Presles » D. DUHAUT. Note that the topo is updated regularly. (once or twice a year).
Comments
Other
activities: There is an aid route worth noting which crosses the Bournillon
porch. You should know that Bernard
GRAVIER, a very good local climber,
strung together in a single day Badaboum, Devil's Hook and le porche du
Bournillon, . When you have seen the ratings for these routes, you'll
understand everything.
Walks, drives, mountain biking, cross country skiing. Don't leave the
region without visiting the famous Grottes
de Choranche and the suspended houses of Pont-en-Royans.
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